Week Twenty

Week Twenty - Photos aren’t currently loading

This week I learnt how to 3D pattern cut so that I can create structures to link to my topic. I found creating the cube shapes pattern at first quite hard as I found the pattern hard to visualise but once we started to draw and label which parts goes where I understood it more. When it came to sewing the the cube together I sewd it together in a way that I thought would create the shape and it worked. Snipping each corner as you sewd them worked well as it mean that the shape of the cube is accurate. However, I feel like the top shape that goes over the top looks thinner than the sides making it look slightly more like a rectangle, but I don't think this is too noticeable. When I went to add the facing I didn't know how to add this without showing the stitching lines. I overcame this by sewing it to the seam allowance on the bottom so that the hollow shape of the cube is covered whilst the stitching isn't seen. 

I also completed samples of shapes in seams which are inspired by my drawings of the college. When I first sewd the shapes together before bagging then out I used a 1.5cm seam allowance which I realised when I bagged them out as they looked to small. I created the pattern with a 1cm seam allowance to make the seams less bulky once bagged out. As the first shapes had the wrong seam allowance I recut them and and sewd these correctly making the seams less bulky and the shapes smoother. I like the way these samples have turned out as they reflect my moldboard well and I like these would work interestingly in the seams around the body in a pattern and different areas and angles.

I also made a cone like sample to represent air vents or heating structures. i think this has worked well to reflects this as its the same shape. This was easy to sew and create the sample for as we have done this similarly when you create the pattern for pleats or flair. This sample was simple to sew as once I have sewn the piece together all I had to do was snip it to make sure it fully reaches the desired shape. I think that sample was helpful to make as it has made me think of design ideas included this ,for example, around the waist or as a cuff.  

In Textiles this week, I completed 22 designs in the lesson which I was proud of because I completed the work that was set and more. I then at home developed these so that I could narrow down my ideas and link multiple design ideas together into one design. I think completing these design ideas has developed my sketching skills and I made sure to not spend too much time completing each drawing making them more sketchy and fluid. When doing this I experimented with different designs to show a model/ form and I landed on a design that was similar to my original design but more elongated, as this is the style of fashion illustration, and one that I think will be easier to replicate making my designs all look uniformed. To create my final design I think I worked well to incorporate aspects from my developed design ideas and I think my design reflects my message well, of redesigning garments into to something else to reduce waste as you can clearly see that the shirt will be as a skirt and the trousers will be as the top, e.g. shirt buttons on the skirt and the trousers waistband as the hem of the top. I think this works well as it makes my message clear. 

In Stretch this week, we listened to artists talks who are inspired by sustainability or the UN global goals. This was useful as it links to both our stretch project and our textiles project. Although none of the talks where about textiles or fashion it was interesting to learn about other artists and how they started in the creative industry. I made sure to take notes.

Whitchurch Silk Mill

Whitchurch Silk Mill - photos aren't currently loading. 

I started of half term by going to Whitchurch Silk Mill. It was really interesting to see how the weave there silk and other materials and the processes it take before the actual weaving starts. It was nice to learn that they keep traditional traditions, methods and skills alive from when the mill opened in 1815. I was shocked that it takes 150m of silk up to 16 weeks to make although after watching a weaver weave I can understand why as there weaves are very complex.

Whilst I was there they had there had an old loom that they don't use anymore that you could try to weave on. I learnt how to use the peddles to adjust the wefts way in which you thread through. After seeing the weaver automatically know which peddle to use it makes you realise how well they memories there work. I enjoy added to the weave although there wasn't much thread left to weave with. 

They also had collaborations weaves on display, Bridgeton and Jane Austin ribbons, that you could look at and it was nice to be able to recognize the colours that where being used. 

They had films and tv shows in which their weaves where featured in including Titanic and The portrait of a Lady which was interesting to see how they include this textiles techniques in costume and sets.  

I enjoyed learning about the weaving and sourcing a preparing their weaves and the volunteers where really helpful and eager to inform you on this subject. It would be nice to go back again during the week when more weaves would be in the process of being made which you would be able to see from behind the screen in the workshops. 

London Fashion Week

 London Fashion Week

This week took place in February 20th until the 24th. One of the trends that I noticed was a range of different collars and shoulder styles, these would generally be classed as out there and out oft the norm as the lengths of these. I found this really interesting as the way that these completely change the the garments shape and how it can make them more interesting. 

I think that seeing this will help me with my designs, especially in the future when we learn collars, as I can see how this small part of a garment can completely change the shape and the style. It will also give me ideas on designs for when I come to this portion of work. 

Whilst I was researching London Fashion Week for my sustainability brief, I learned that for January 2026 fashion brands will have to fill out a plan too be more sustainable and reach sustainability requirements that are already in place. London Fashion Week also became one of the first major fashion weeks to ban the use of exotic skins, like crocodile, which I think is a very important step to take to help stop animal exploitation. This will also help people to think about sustainable alternatives they could use or create.

I think this is a great idea as it means that brand shave to be responsible in this area to be apart of the show. It will also help these brands to think about suitability before the show and when they are making collections prior to this show so they can be accepted without them having to change anything to meet requirements. 

I think this will also help to inspire other brands or individual creators/ artists to be more sustainable as it is being promoted at the London Fashion Week as they are seeing brands they may be inspired by. 

Week Nineteen

 Week Nineteen - Photos aren't currently loading.

This week in pattern cutting we learnt how to make the pattern for a peplum using information we know about circle skirts. 

Once we had to made this we cut it out in fabric which made us think about how much fabric there is in total and how to make the least amount of waste. I found it difficult to pin flat because of how big it was and how as it was a it was holey the pins would sometimes fall through the holes. Some parts of the peplum became slightly 'bubbled' as it wasn't pinned completely flat in some places, next time I will make sure to keep that horsehair flat when I sew it as of me removing the pins when I sew it. 

I also learnt how to work with boning for the first time to support the structures from our architectural references we have been using. I'm glad we did this as I think this will be a good way to add shapes that look like panels. I need to make sure that I add boning covers on the end of my boning to ensure comfort as I didn't realise you had to do this even if its contained in a channel. Learning to handle boning will also benefit me in the future as I am interested in costume, this will benefit me in the more historically inspired side of this. 

I learnt that because the the nylon boning had holes in it when sewing along it that needle 'bounces' around into different holes. This is something I will take note of incase I want the stitching the be visible from the front, the stitching line may not be as straight as I would like it to be. 

I have researched artists who illustrate and collage architecture to help support my drawings and samples I want to create from them. 

In textiles we experimented with dissolvable fabric, unlike the last time I used it, we used two layers of this- a more fabric like one and a plasticly one. I found added the fabric like dissolvable material under it made this more sturdy and it want susceptible to rips. This is good as it acted like normal fabric when you free embroidered onto it. 

I experimented with create a lace like sample which worked well as of the multiple lines of stitching which overlapped. As I wanted to make sure it kept its shape this 'lace' sample was bulky. I wanted to try and again and make it look more delicate like lace but unfortunately because it was too thin when I put it in water it completely lost its shape. This made me learnt that I should of either of gone over the stitches more making it stronger or tried to dissolve my sample whilst it was pined in place attached to something underneath it.  

I also completed boro stitching samples which I learnt you can distress fabric which a cheese grater. This is useful to learn as it means I can do this at home and easily. I like the effect this has on the fabric as its looks worn out which is when they would repair they clothes. 

I also experimented with knitting which at the start I found hard to get going with it and the steps after casting on but I did eventually understand it and remember how to do it. My samples did have a few holes in them but I this is fine as they don't have big holes in them making them unravel or stand out too much. This is also my first time knitting in many years so I think that I have picked it up well again. 

I practiced making weaving samples on a mini loom that I have at home. I like this as the frame holds the tension well making it easier to slide the material over and under. I like the way that the back is clear compared to when you weave on a cardboard weave as I feel its easier to make different types of weaves with the cardboard in the way. But sometimes it feel easier to push the weave tighter together when there's something supporting he back of it. 

In photography this week we learnt how to make tetra packs to support a photography shoot to link to sustainability/unsustainability in a way that we choose to. I think this lesson went well as I made sure to make as many as possible and I helped other people out by gluing there's together. 

In CAD this week we discussed different ways to be sustainable and how to source materials from places like Renne Materials, I think this website is really useful as they sell bundles of fabric or scraps in certain colours or materials. This could be really helpful if you wanted to make a sustainable fashion or textiles piece in a certain material, this will encourage people to do this as they can find everything in one place. I also thought that everything was also reasonably priced. I thought it was great that they also sell sell fabric that has the exact right parts to be made into a bag, reducing the need to buy a whole new bag and this gong to landfill. 

In Stretch this week I thought about the best way to display my work that I'm creating to showcase he global goals. I think this worked well as I thought about the space we have and the type of textiles I'm creating. Weaves can be seen from the front and back so hanging it down may be a good way to show this. 

Week Eighteen

Week Eighteen. 

In pattern cutting this week we walked around the college drawing and illustrating structures to inspire samples we will make when learning new techniques.  

I learnt how to use elastic to crate texture and lines, I also experimented with netting to add structure and volume. I experimented with thicker and thinner elastic and I learnt that the thinner elastic creates more stretch making it look more ruched. I think these would work well to create shape or to stay close to the body, for example around the waist or a cuff. This was my first time sewing with elastic and I found it easy to sew on and move but I was a bit apprehensive to sew the layers of elastic and netting as it was thicker. 

In Textiles we experimented with weaving which I enjoy, I found the pattern of going under three over one difficult to wrap my head around. This could of also been because because both my warp and weft where white. I tired to use different materials which I already had trying to be more sustainable. 

I also made sure to research sustainable textile artist and fashion designers to help inspire my samples that I create.

We watched the 'Fashions dirty secrets' documentary which was eye opening towards the damage that cotton farming causes and the way factories damage to the environment and the rivers surrounding. 

In stretch I experimented with combine previous materials, fabric, paper and cardboard. This made me learn that the cardboard next to the fabric makes a more rigid shape than just having fabric. I thought that tucking the the edges in to neaten this weave would be challenging as of the rigid structure of the carboard. 

I also create patchwork samples with word reuse and recycle on it to remind people to be more conscious about consumption.

In photography, I did a shoot of what's in my bag to show something that you're not- not defined by your bag. This made me think about how to arrange my objects so that they would look best and not be too close to one another. I also took photos for another persons shoot which made me think about how to angle the camera to make sure they where in shot. 

In CAD this week we learnt how to make multi page documents to create what a look book could look like. I learnt how to use 'parents' to make pages have the same format. 

Week Seventeen.

Week Seventeen.

 

Over the weekend before my pattern cutting lesson I managed to sew my tops pin-tucks, pleats sewd the shoulder seams. I also managed to sew the facing to the top. In the lesson I started to add the zip, learning that I have to fully sew the facing to the top before adding the zip to the top. I learnt this after I had sewn one side so this wasn't a massive issue as I could still pass it through the shoulder gap. Once I had done this I managed to twist the zip when I was lining it up to sew it, this meant I had to unpick and resew the zip. I didn't mind doing this as it made me understand the way it should go better so in the future this hopefully wont happen again. Overall, I think my zip has turned out neatly as you can see the zip tape making it invisible.

To finish off my top, I made bias binding this was useful to do as I have only properly- other than a sample- made it twice so it made me think throw how I should do it. I found to sew it to my top simple but when the two ends met difficult as I wasn't too sure how to finish it off, I tried a few times to make it neater than the last and i think my final binding worked well as the connect doesn't stand out too much especially as it its black bias against a back panel.

 

Before handing my colour top in I made sure  to cut all my threads and I learnt that I could further cut around the armholes seam to make the fabric lay even flatter, releasing tension.

For my textiles garment this week I started by hand stitching my applique to be ready to attach onto my dress. I have tried to use different types of stitches to add different textures and mark makings.

In the lesson this week I added the zip and hemmed my dress. As I did this previously the day before on my color top i didn't need to look at notes to sew this, I'm proud of this as it means my skills are developing and I have successfully learnt how to do this as it has turned out very neat. When sewing that seam together, once changing the concealed foot to a normal zip foot, I wasn't happy with the result so I redid it a few times so that the sewing was neat and the edges of the fabric lines up. This mad me learn to try and finish sewing the zip tape at the same point so when you pull it out of the way it will became easier to avoid stitching over. When hemming my fabric two of the panels where slightly shorter, this may be because two of the panels slightly shortened when I panted them. To amend this I just made sure to stitch the hem at the same point making the 1.scm seam allowance from the shortest side so it would measure correctly. I decided to decide where to put my applique whilst my garment was on the mannequin so I could see the placement when the dress is hung, so the shape would become clearer. Once i had done this I hand stitched on my applique on whilst it was on the maniquin. 

In Photography this week whilst others where shooting I researched ways to make a tabloid or broadsheet newspaper to display my photographs on and I worked on my digital display of my work for my deadline this Friday.  

In Stretch this week I further experimented with sustainability in textiles researching artist I like, this made me learn different materials I could work with, for example, old unusable balloons, packaging, old straws, and flora found on the floor. I made a weave using old cereal boxes and newspapers to experiment with different materials and textures. I like how this worked and how it was more rigid then my other weave. I think it would be good to mix this materials and add more to increase colour in my weaves. 

In CAD this week we continued using InDesign to create promotional flyers for Kew Gardens, thinking about different design aspects and linking colour in our flyers. 

Week Sixteen.

 Week Sixteen. 

In Pattern cutting this week, I cut out my fabrics and overlocked them. This made me learn how to use the industrial over-locker which is useful as now if the other one is busy I can use this or if needed that colour I can. This was also useful to use as this is what they use in industry and I already know how to use this. 

When cutting out my fabric for my final top I made sure to cut it with as least waste as possible, learning to be less wasteful. This made me think about where I should place the pattern pieces to do this. 

At home, the weekend before the lesson, I managed to finish of my toile learning that some of the facing wasn't quite the right size so I amended this for my final outcome. This made me remember that the facing should be the same length on the front and back so that they line up and look neater. I also learnt that not not heavily iron the front pin-tucks as it gives them a flat look rather than a flowy look to the change in directions. I will make sure to not iron these in my cotton material, although the cotton may act differently as it is less rigid and structured to my calico fabric for my toile. 

In textiles this week I made my pattern, learning how to cut the pattern to make the dart the right shape and how to make the facing pattern without the dart. In this lesson I sewd the front of the toile, marking where the darts should be sewn. This was helpful as it made my sewing accurate. I learnt how to put the bodice and skirt blocks together to make a dress pattern, this made me think logically how to this as I have never done this before and I did some research and then made the pattern how I thought I should. This went well as when I made my toile for it I was happy with the shape it created and all the seams lined up.

When toiling the facing this pattern was also slightly too small at the shoulder on the front. This made no issues however I did amend it so the seam allowances would match and be accurate, this made me think about how I could change the pattern which I then did so when I made my final garment it I more accurate.

This week I also cut out, overlocked and painted my design onto my final fabric. I found it challenged decided on how I should paint it. I learnt the best way was to pin the two panels together at the S/A and mark out where I want the circles to go, then unpin this and paint it flat. I also decided where necessary to sew the dart closed before so I could see how it would look finished before easier. 

In the lesson I managed to sew the panels together and add the facing, I'm glad I achieved this as now I just need to add the zip, applique and hem the dress. 

In photography, I shot horizontal pictures of shapes inspired by Kandinsky and this made me think about lighting and the composition of where I want to place my shapes to make it look balanced. 

In Stretch this week I thought about sustainability in textiles and how to reuse scrap fabrics. I used these to create a weave which I taught a classmate to make a mini loom using scrap cardboard to make it. I also showed them how to create a weave and the way you do this. 

In CAD we learnt how to use InDesign. I have previously learnt this but it was awhile ago so it was good to have a refresh of this software.