Week Seventeen.

Week Seventeen.

 

Over the weekend before my pattern cutting lesson I managed to sew my tops pin-tucks, pleats sewd the shoulder seams. I also managed to sew the facing to the top. In the lesson I started to add the zip, learning that I have to fully sew the facing to the top before adding the zip to the top. I learnt this after I had sewn one side so this wasn't a massive issue as I could still pass it through the shoulder gap. Once I had done this I managed to twist the zip when I was lining it up to sew it, this meant I had to unpick and resew the zip. I didn't mind doing this as it made me understand the way it should go better so in the future this hopefully wont happen again. Overall, I think my zip has turned out neatly as you can see the zip tape making it invisible.

To finish off my top, I made bias binding this was useful to do as I have only properly- other than a sample- made it twice so it made me think throw how I should do it. I found to sew it to my top simple but when the two ends met difficult as I wasn't too sure how to finish it off, I tried a few times to make it neater than the last and i think my final binding worked well as the connect doesn't stand out too much especially as it its black bias against a back panel.

 

Before handing my colour top in I made sure  to cut all my threads and I learnt that I could further cut around the armholes seam to make the fabric lay even flatter, releasing tension.

For my textiles garment this week I started by hand stitching my applique to be ready to attach onto my dress. I have tried to use different types of stitches to add different textures and mark makings.

In the lesson this week I added the zip and hemmed my dress. As I did this previously the day before on my color top i didn't need to look at notes to sew this, I'm proud of this as it means my skills are developing and I have successfully learnt how to do this as it has turned out very neat. When sewing that seam together, once changing the concealed foot to a normal zip foot, I wasn't happy with the result so I redid it a few times so that the sewing was neat and the edges of the fabric lines up. This mad me learn to try and finish sewing the zip tape at the same point so when you pull it out of the way it will became easier to avoid stitching over. When hemming my fabric two of the panels where slightly shorter, this may be because two of the panels slightly shortened when I panted them. To amend this I just made sure to stitch the hem at the same point making the 1.scm seam allowance from the shortest side so it would measure correctly. I decided to decide where to put my applique whilst my garment was on the mannequin so I could see the placement when the dress is hung, so the shape would become clearer. Once i had done this I hand stitched on my applique on whilst it was on the maniquin. 

In Photography this week whilst others where shooting I researched ways to make a tabloid or broadsheet newspaper to display my photographs on and I worked on my digital display of my work for my deadline this Friday.  

In Stretch this week I further experimented with sustainability in textiles researching artist I like, this made me learn different materials I could work with, for example, old unusable balloons, packaging, old straws, and flora found on the floor. I made a weave using old cereal boxes and newspapers to experiment with different materials and textures. I like how this worked and how it was more rigid then my other weave. I think it would be good to mix this materials and add more to increase colour in my weaves. 

In CAD this week we continued using InDesign to create promotional flyers for Kew Gardens, thinking about different design aspects and linking colour in our flyers. 

Week Sixteen.

 Week Sixteen. 

In Pattern cutting this week, I cut out my fabrics and overlocked them. This made me learn how to use the industrial over-locker which is useful as now if the other one is busy I can use this or if needed that colour I can. This was also useful to use as this is what they use in industry and I already know how to use this. 

When cutting out my fabric for my final top I made sure to cut it with as least waste as possible, learning to be less wasteful. This made me think about where I should place the pattern pieces to do this. 

At home, the weekend before the lesson, I managed to finish of my toile learning that some of the facing wasn't quite the right size so I amended this for my final outcome. This made me remember that the facing should be the same length on the front and back so that they line up and look neater. I also learnt that not not heavily iron the front pin-tucks as it gives them a flat look rather than a flowy look to the change in directions. I will make sure to not iron these in my cotton material, although the cotton may act differently as it is less rigid and structured to my calico fabric for my toile. 

In textiles this week I made my pattern, learning how to cut the pattern to make the dart the right shape and how to make the facing pattern without the dart. In this lesson I sewd the front of the toile, marking where the darts should be sewn. This was helpful as it made my sewing accurate. I learnt how to put the bodice and skirt blocks together to make a dress pattern, this made me think logically how to this as I have never done this before and I did some research and then made the pattern how I thought I should. This went well as when I made my toile for it I was happy with the shape it created and all the seams lined up.

When toiling the facing this pattern was also slightly too small at the shoulder on the front. This made no issues however I did amend it so the seam allowances would match and be accurate, this made me think about how I could change the pattern which I then did so when I made my final garment it I more accurate.

This week I also cut out, overlocked and painted my design onto my final fabric. I found it challenged decided on how I should paint it. I learnt the best way was to pin the two panels together at the S/A and mark out where I want the circles to go, then unpin this and paint it flat. I also decided where necessary to sew the dart closed before so I could see how it would look finished before easier. 

In the lesson I managed to sew the panels together and add the facing, I'm glad I achieved this as now I just need to add the zip, applique and hem the dress. 

In photography, I shot horizontal pictures of shapes inspired by Kandinsky and this made me think about lighting and the composition of where I want to place my shapes to make it look balanced. 

In Stretch this week I thought about sustainability in textiles and how to reuse scrap fabrics. I used these to create a weave which I taught a classmate to make a mini loom using scrap cardboard to make it. I also showed them how to create a weave and the way you do this. 

In CAD we learnt how to use InDesign. I have previously learnt this but it was awhile ago so it was good to have a refresh of this software. 

Week Fifteen.

Week Fifteen.

This week was the first week back from Christmas holidays and we started by looking at and amending our mood boards. This made me learn that I stuck too many pictures of tops onto my mood board that it was slightly overcrowded and featured too many pictures of other work. This helped me to make a new mood board and think about what I could do for my next mood board for my next project to make this more developed.

We also started to think about what samples to make to help us with our designing process. This made me think about different types of pleats and pin-tucks which I could feature in my designs. This made me learn how to make the pattern for each of these which has led me to becoming more confident in this skill. I made a pattern for inverted and normal box pleat as I wanted to be able to see and hold the difference in these. I preferred the box pleat as you can physically see the box shape which I prefer. I also learnt how to pin-tuck, I wanted to do this as it adds texture to the fabric. I learnt that by sewing at a 90-degree angle to the pin-tucks, manipulating the direction of the fabric making it look similar to weaving, linking it to my artists Anni Albers.

 

To be ready for my textiles lesson this week I had already completed a mood board to inspire my designs. I did this so that every piece of work I do in the future I make sure to link it to my artists work and colour scheme.

In Textiles when started with applique, I mad ensure to complete all of this with circle designs to link to my artist Kandinsky. I think these worked well as I included a range of design and include different stitches. At home I further developed this by using hand stitching as I wanted to demonstrate a wide range of techniques. This made me learn that when using thicker embroidery thread, I like to use contrasting colours to make them stand out more. In some of these samples I also added wadding, this made me learn which stitches work better to hold the wadding in place. I also experimented with fabric paint which made me learnt that it dries quite quick which will be beneficial in my final designs when making them on a time limit. I also learnt how to patchwork without seeing the seams, I found this difficult as I didn’t follow a guide, and I tried to make it based of an idea. I learnt what order to construct it and if I did this again the result may be neater and thinking about what I did last time and changing it slightly.

In Stretch this week I photographed my final costume for the competition for The Royal Ballet. I am happy with my outcome as of the time limit and the limited fabric I had to work on the skirt with. I was inspired by the methods of the ROH through how they make costumes, for example, the hock and eyes to reduce the risk of a zip gamming and how multiple hooks mean multiple wearers. I did this to reflect the knowledge of my research and what I learnt when I toured it. 

In Photography this week I photographed my model holding different shapes we painted to represent Kandinsky. This made me think about which colours best suited the red background and where I should place the shapes to look most effective. It also made me think and become more confident about lightening and where the best position is to get the best lightening would be.  

 

In CAD this week we could continue to do any work we wanted to do I started to create designs for my Tate Modern Top which made me think about different pleats, shapes, necklines I could use in my designs.