This week was half term and as I had managed to make my patterns the previous week in college this week I could focus on my toile making, I started with the jacket and constructing the raglan sleeve. When attaching the sleeves via the raglan I struggled with angling the fabric when sewing it in to make it fit the shape of the bodice patterns. This may be as resolved when using thicker fabric, cotton drill, or if I add slightly more length to the part of the sleeve which would match up to the Neck.
When I got to this point, I had already cut and sewd the side seams of the sleeve together ready to be attached to the front and back of the jacket, when I realised that when pattern cutting I added the curve into the inside of the arm instead of the outside to be curved outwards with the triangle shape. This meant that I had to remove the curved shape from the inside and redraw it on the outside, whilst I was here I also made the curve wider to make it more of a feature as it didnt look wide enough of the incorrectly made pattern. I had to redo this as if I kept it not only would it not be accurate to the designs shape but the curved arm would be hidden when the arm is relaxed or down.
As of the way I used sharp corners in this raglan it was challenging to change the directions to sew the shapes of the raglan sleeve between the shoulder, I would make sure to snip up to the sewing line to make sure when pushed through the triangle point can be sharp. At times if the seam allowance around the point was making it harder to push through or looked bulky I would trim the excess down, which let it be bagged out.
After seeing this arm correctly sewn into the raglan and bodice, I decided that the triangle shape at the shoulder may be too small and not tall enough to stand out as I wanted it to as I want this to be a large feature that is focused on in my design. To make the pattern larger, I went back to my original draft and thought about the point where the two sides meet and redrew where the new point could be. I used the original draft as it meant that I could be sure the point wouldn't overlap with the other side which was useful to me as l didnt want to change the direction of the triangle, only the length. I also made the triangles wider to allow for the length added so the angle of the triangle isn't so tight straight away, hoping to making the bagging out process easier, I made sure to snip the top of the triangles shapes, once cm from the point, so that there isn't too much excess fabric.
I decided to use calico for this leg because it would replicate cotton drill the most which was helpful to me as it helped me get an idea of how the cotton drill will behave with the thicker fabric as of the similar drape and density they both have. The trousers do not hold themselves as I was hoping that they would but I think that this is because of the way that they are made majority with the cotton with drapes lightly and is thinner than the cotton drill is. If this is still a problem when I made it in cotton drill I could perhaps use starch spray to make it more structured.
I found making the pattern of the lining for this jacket challenging to do on my own, so I waited until going back to college to ask for a dive when it then made since and I am more confident in this process now. I found this difficult as I wanted the lining of the jacket to not going onto the triangles at the shoulders as there would be foam inside this but sit under it, supporting it so I was confused how to excicute this based off of the patterns I had already created.
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